Back to Top

Monthly Archives: February 2012

Things to do in Istanbul

One of my cousins asked if I could share with her a list of things to do while visiting Istanbul.

Funnily enough, I had just put together the itinerary for my upcoming book and film project: The Magic of Istanbul.

The following is a list of what I will be doing on my third expedition to Istanbul.
And yes I have already visited everything listed.

The Hippodrome: Serpentine Column, Egyptian Obelisk, The German Fountain, Constantine Obelisk

The hotel I like to stay at is right in the Hippodrome and it really is a park like atmosphere. The monuments are all outdoors and are fun (and quick) to see. I like to see them during the day and at night as the flavor of the area changes.

The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art

The museum is fascinating and offers a really nice mix of things to see. The collection really rounds out things you won’t see at other museums. I missed it my first year though and felt really bad.

The Blue Mosque

There are many mosques in Istanbul but this one you can not miss! On both previous expeditions I went back several times. It is truly an awesome experience. You have to watch the clothing restrictions: be prepared to take off your shoes, women are given head covers and men can’t wear shorts. Some people really respect that this is a house of worship but don’t be surprised by tourists who don’t show it (or the rules) any reverence. Be offended by these people – just don’t be surprised.

The Arasta Bazaar

Right outside of the Blue Mosque is a small and very low key bazaar. It’s not a madhouse and very fun to look at – the prices aren’t great but shopping is as much looking as it is buying.

The Great Palace Mosaic Museum

This is located in the Arasta Bazaar and it has some fantastic mosaics. There is a lot to read and even more to see – though it is really just one big open space laid out so you can walk around and see it from above and at ground level. I’ve hard some people think its small but I include it on my must see list.

The Basilica Cictern

Not far from the Hippodrome is the Bascilica Cictern – also something not to miss. It is dark and cavernous, this underground water reservoir is a little hard to describe. It has some cool architecture (and a Medusa head). Plus they filmed parts of From Russia With Love in it.

The Hagia Sophia

One of the most important places in Art History and in Christianity – it was recently renovated and you can spend time just basking in the vastness of it. This is a universal must see. Expect to spend a lot of time here – it is big – and you don’t want to miss any of the nooks and crannies.

Topkapi Palace

This place is huge! You have to pay extra to see the Harem but it is worth it. Between the gardens, the Harem, the treasury and the reliquary you can spend a lot of time here. The reliquary even has the sword of David & the staff of Moses! There are also some amazing views of the rest of the city.

Hagia Irene

It’s in the outer courtyard of Topkapi Palace so if it’s open peak in.

The Istanbul Museum of Archeology

This museum goes on and on (and on). I think you need to pick your battles as I don’t think anyone can see the entire thing. At some point you will just start to survey. I have seen it all I just haven’t read it all. I tell people to go but not to feel bad if they get overloaded.

The Column of Constantine

Is a nice monument plus it’s on the way to The Grand Bazaar.

The Grand Bazaar

Everyone should go to the Grand Bazaar twice. Once to view – once to shop. You can get great deals or you can get badly swindled. You can get knockoff designer versions of anything. I also like to wander the streets around it – the farther you wander the better the prices. When I buy scarves I keep walking to where the Turkish women shop and the prices plummet to a few dollars each.

Sahaflar Carsisi – The Book Bazaar

I hunted this down because I really wanted to see it – it isn’t too far from the Grand Bazaar (but it isn’t too close either). They have some very nice print and book merchants but most everything of course is in Turkish. Prints are expensive and you need to know what you are looking at before you buy anything.

Suleymaniye Mosque

This is one of the most important mosque’s in Istanbul. It is a real pleasure to visit and there is a garden, cemetery, and tomb.

Dolmabahce Palace

Across the Golden Horn (but still on the European side of the Bosphorus) is the other big palace. Well worth going – the last room is one of the most breathtaking rooms I have ever seen in my life (and I have been to Versailles). Like Topkapi there are extra fees for the Harem and it also has a clock museum and an aviary. All of which are worth doing!

Taksim Square

Everyone ends up at Taksim Square because it is so famous – its just a square (though I didn’t go at night) and it has a Starbucks – I don’t drink coffee it’s just a sign of the times.

Istiklal Caddesi

The neighborhood right outside of Taksim is all upscale shopping and there is a trolly that connects Taksim to the Galata Tower (area) fun to walk around for a little but then I like to take the old fashioned trolley.

Galata Tower

Every panorama of Istanbul is taken from Galata Tower – it has great views and they offer a very expensive dinner/show which I have not been to. The area around it has a lot of musical instrument shops. The whole area has a really mellow vibe.

Galata Bridge

The bridge connects back across the Golden Horn. Underneath there are a bunch of seafood restaurants. Watch the prices and if what you are ordering is local fresh or just fresh fresh.

Sirkeci Station

While modern trains still run through the station it is the original terminus for the Orient Express and they have a nifty little museum. It really is a hidden gem and shows a part of history you don’t see in other parts of the city.

Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir

Not far from the station is the sweet shop that invented Turkish Delight. You have to go if just to get a free sample.

Koska

I like going to this sweet shop because it has a larger variety of items (and also more free samples).

The Spice Bazaar aka The Egyptian Bazaar

The Spice Bazaar is not very large but it is a completely different experience from the Grand Bazaar. Everyone will try and sell you Saffron and giant Jasmine flowers. The different teas are fun to get and they will vacuum seal everything for you. You can get your luggage overloaded pretty fast by bringing home a kilo of this and a kilo of that. Like the Grand Bazaar I like to walk around and see the area that has spilled over around it for amazing food and culinary supplies.

The New Mosque

Is attached to the Spice Bazaar so if you have a few peak in.

Chora Church

The church is a must must see and the mosaics and frescoes are breathtaking and even though it is harder to get to its really worth the trip. Some nice shopping right around it as well. There is nothing else like it in Istanbul!

The Theodosian Walls

The outer walls of the city – while you can see them everywhere – when you are by Chora you really get a chance to explore them. Every so often you find stairs that lead to the top of the walls – and if you aren’t afraid of heights you can get some awesome views.

The Palace of the Porphyrogenitus

Part of the wall (and near Chora) forms the ruin of a ancient palace – its right by a playground and a truck parking lot. I love architecture so I hunted it down – for most though it is just a different stretch of wall.

Bucoleon Palace

Just another stretch of the old city walls that has the ruins of some window openings of another palace long gone. It’s really hard to find – and not worth it for most. It is on the far side of the city walls by the water.

The Valens Aqueduct

It is a huge aqueduct running through the city – with traffic going under. I thought it was great – but again I’m into architecture – tricky to get to though – it isn’t near anything else.

Sehzade Camii – The Prince’s Mosque

Since I wander everywhere for architecture I visited this really nice Mosque.

Beylerbeyi Palace

Across the water (on the Asian side) is this little palace which I think is a real gem to visit. You take the train to Dolmabahce and then the ferry across the water (and then a taxi) sounds like a hike but it really is lovely.

Yedikule Fortress

Since I am a castle guy – I need to see the local castles. This one has 7 towers and is totally empty! Not for those afraid of heights (which I am) because they really let you explore the towers and walls. To get there you take a real train. It is not for most and I don’t imagine a lot of people go there but I think it is awesome!

Istanbul Cevahir

I have a thing for malls – and this is the largest mall in Europe and the 6th largest in the world. The 5th floor is one giant food court, the 6th is all restaurants. Why am I telling you this? Because sometimes when I am out of the country for a month I need to go to the movies! Plus fast food in Istanbul is much better than fast food at home.

A Bosphorus Cruise

There are many ways to see the Bosphorus and the best way is a cruise. Not a big fancy one – just the basic “Full Bosphorus Cruise”. While you can get on and off, I like to take it all the way to the end which is at Anadolu Kavagi a little fishing village – have a great seafood meal and then…

Yoros Kalesi

Take a taxi (don’t hike it) up the mountain and visit this really neat ruin of a castle. From here you can see a view that stretches out to the mouth of the Black Sea. They started doing a dig there so you can’t get into the castle anymore but it is a pretty spectacular view from outside. Plus its a ruin so there is not much to see inside that you can’t from the outside.

Rumeli Hisari

On the cruise you will see a giant three towered castle – the Castle of Europe. You get great views from the cruise but it is also possible to visit (with buses and taxis). As castles go – it is very well preserved, a nice fortification ,and a pleasant afternoon – but again I like castles. Some just enjoy the views from the cruise – I like going there – it has a great little outdoor theater. There is another little castle across the water called the Castle of Asia – it is barely visible from the water and not worth visiting in person (I did once and if you blink you miss it).

Cappadocia Day Tour

It’s not Istanbul – in fact it is not anywhere near Istanbul but if you fly halfway across the world why not go for a little more. Capaddocia is simply magical. Last year I did a one day trip – they fly you out in the morning, drive you all over, feed you, and then fly you back. In one day I saw: Devrent Valley, Pasabag/Monk’s Valley, Avanos Pottery Village, Goreme, and Uchisar Citadel. Its a slippery slope though because you can spend more days here and then start seeing the other sights outside Istanbul – but I feel one little excursion doesn’t hurt.

Other Things To Do

Eat! Shop! Listen to Music! Watch Dancing! Go to a Turkish Bath! Get a Shave! Shop for a Turkish Carpet (but don’t buy it).
So much to do!

Posted in Travel |

From Castle to Castle: Ireland episodes 1 and 2

I am pleased to announce that today I posted 2 episodes of From Castle to Castle: Ireland – Day 1
(This is a re-cut of the previously released episode 1)

From Castle to Castle: Ireland – Episode 01 (Day 1)

From Castle to Castle: Ireland – Episode 02 (Day 1)

These 2 episodes chronicle the first of my 12 days hunting castles in Ireland in 2003. This was killer low budget (don’t full screen it) and it represents my first time in front of a video camera (as well as simultaneously behind it). No mics, no lights, no crew just a video camera, a still camera, and a killer mullet. Some fun/weird things happen in future episodes and I think these set the tone for what I will be doing in future episodes.

Enjoy

And here are some great castle resources!

 

Posted in Misc |

Goodbye Puppycat

Today was a very sad day.  I had to put Puppycat, my 19 year old Siamese, to sleep.

We came home last night to find her in front of her water bowl unable to move and soaked in her own urine. It was sad to see her suffer and not how I want to remember her.

19 years ago…

My friend Barbara told me her landlord said she couldn’t keep her Siamese kitten Tasha.  Even though she was just a kitten Barbara was already her second owner.  The original owner was very wealthy and paid $1,000 for her and had her 4 paw de-clawed (which I know is cruel and they missed a single claw) and then decided she didn’t want her anymore and gave her to Barbara.

I had played with Tasha a bunch of times and I always thought she was cute.  When Barbara told me she needed to find a home for her I asked my girlfriend Suzanne if she knew a good home and Suzanne suggested that I take her (which it turns out was what Barbara wanted as Tasha was only ever nice to me).

I never meant to ‘rename’ Tasaha but I started to call her Puppycat and it stuck.

She was a very unusual cat.  She never cleaned herself, she never covered her litter, she would burn her whiskers in candles.  The vet said that she had instinct problems because she was taken away from her mother to early and was mildly retarded.  That aside she was loving and clever – sure she ran away from the litter box every times she pooped but she came when called and was always there when I needed her.

She also knew she had that single claw.  She would come at you with it if she needed to.  When she first went into heat she was crazy and when I took to get her fixed they agreed to remove the last claw.  The vet was very nice and told me that the first vet was a butcher and he removed bone fragments from all four paws.  It left with her one flabby paw – she would nurse that paw and hated anyone touching it.  After that though she became a biter – she would warn before she bit – and she would bite very deep – it was the only way she knew how to express herself.  She never really bit me – but then again – I was the only one she every really liked.

For 19 years she was my loving companion.  She would often play with other cats and she came to tolerate the dog (who really wanted to be her friend) but I think Junior is going to miss her most of all. When we got Junior (my Manx) as a kitten, Puppycat really changed and her maternal instincts kicked in.  Puppycat started to groom Junior (though still not herself) and the two wrestled and cuddled every night.

We all have stories about our pets.  I could tell the story about the time I took her to the mall in a bag, the time she tore open a friend of mine’s bag and ate all his pot, the time she knocked over my friends 5 year old little boy and stole his pizza, or that she would play with a ball of yarn so fiercely that she would tie the chairs to the table.

Her last few years have been quiet ones.  She spent most of her time sleeping on the ottoman and playing with Junior.  I had hoped she would die in her sleep and putting her down was one of the hardest things I have ever had to do.

Goodbye Puppycat

Posted in Misc |